More than Soups, Breads and Dumplings: The Tale of the Ladakhi Cuisine

By Arka Chakarborty

Food is perhaps the most vibrant expression of human culture. Beyond a matter of survival, the culinary practices of a region encompass and are molded by the region’s climate, topography, economy and culture. Culinary culture, therefore, is intricately connected to all other aspects of human existence. This connection is apparent in all its glory in the Himalayan landscapes of Ladakh, the Roof of the World. The high-altitude mountainous region, with its harsh winters, has given birth to a culinary culture that focuses on keeping oneself full and warm in order to find the energy to work hard and survive. Exploring the food of Ladakh and the communities which celebrate them is a fascinating exercise.

No discussion on the food of Ladakh can begin without the mention of momos which are perhaps the most famous delicacies from this region. Momos are dumplings consisting of minced meat or vegetables which are wrapped in a flour coating and steamed. Sometimes the flour is mixed with a bit of yeast or baking soda to give it a soft texture. Momos are steamed in special containers called mokto. This container has several compartments with holes in them which are placed on top of each other. Water is boiled in the bottom-most compartment and the steam generated from this container cooks the momos. Momos are versatile dishes inasmuch as the fillings can be adjusted to the preferences of the audience. They can be steamed, deep fried or even pan fried. In Ladakh, momos are sold at roadside stalls and restaurants alike. Numerous restaurants and fast food chains have made momos popular across India. The nationwide popularity of momos has led to numerous experiments and many restaurants in Leh have even started serving chocolate momos (Incredible India; SOTC, 2023; Ju-Leh Adventure)!

Thukpa, essentially a kind of noodle soup, is considered a staple food in Ladakh. Both the dish thukpa and the word ‘thukpa’ mean ‘soup or stew combined with noodles.’ The dish originated in the Amdo region of eastern Tibet and is relished across Sikkim, Assam, Arunachal Pradesh, Himachal Pradesh, Nagaland, Ladakh and the Darjeeling district of West Bengal. It is said that the Dalai Lama’s mother introduced this simple yet magnificent dish to India after the Lama and his entourage took refuge in India in 1959. Traditionally, thukpa is prepared by mincing meat and vegetables and boiling them with a little salt and pepper. Noodles are prepared from freshly kneaded flour and are then thrown into the broth. In the dry and cold environment of Ladakh thukpa provides both hydration and warmth. Different variations of thukpa are served in Ladakh ranging from gyathuk (Chinese noodles) to thenthuk (hard pulled noodles) and pathug (hand- rolled pinched noodles). Numerous variations of thukpa are available outside Ladakh as well. In Arunachal Pradesh, for example, thukpa is the staple food for the Monpa community. They prepare a special form of thukpa called Putang Thukpa, buckwheat noodles which are made into curry and flavored with yak meat or dry fish. In Sikkim, people tend to pair thukpa with momos (Shankar, 2021; Roy Chowdhury, 2016; Incredible India; SOTC, 2024; Ju-Leh Adventure).

Skyu is a soup-based dish eaten across Ladakh. It comprises of wheat flour and root vegetables like carrots and turnips. Wheat flour is made into dough and then shaped into thumb-sized flattened balls. The wheat dough and chopped vegetables are then put in a pot with water and cooked till the skyu is ready. It is sometimes also called a local form of pasta. It can also be had with meat. Skyu is understood as a winter food and is prepared when the temperature drops below the freezing point (Ju-Leh Adventure, SOTC 2023; Incredible India). The word ‘chhutagi’ literally means ‘water bread’ (the word ‘chhu’ means water and ‘tagi’ means bread in Ladakhi). Also called ‘dumpling soup,’ chhutagi is prepared by first shaping the flatted flour dough into circular patterns and then reshaping these into the shape of a bow tie. These bow-tie shaped dough patters are then cooked in a mildly spiced broth with vegetables such as potatoes, carrots and spinach. A heavy meal, chhutagi is usually served during the harvesting season and is supposed to give workers more energy. Restaurants in Leh have come up with numerous varieties of chhutagi (Ju-Leh Adventure; Incredible India).

Also known as tagi (bread), khambir is a local whole wheat brown bread which is a staple food in Ladakh. Khambir has a round shape and a thick crust. Prepared using yeast, wheat and water, it is often served for breakfast with butter tea but it can also be eaten for lunch along with eggs and vegetables. It is also paired with a local cheese spread. Khambir is culturally significant to the people of Ladakh as it is seen as a symbol of hospitality and offered to guests in Ladakhi homes (Ju-Leh Adventure; SOTC, 2023). Tingmo or tigmo is a light and fluffy bun which can be had for breakfast, lunch and dinner. The wheat flour dough is first kneaded and then folded and intricately twisted before cooking it in the mokto to prepare this bread. It can be paired with meat, vegetables and lentils. Typically eaten with something spicy and hot, tingmo is the perfect comfort food (Ju-Leh Adventure; SOTC, 2023).

Once considered the staple food of Ladakh, paba is a bread made by roasting barley flour (Ngamphey) or wheat with peas. The flour used to make paba contains barley, turtle beans, wheat, brown peas and dal or lentils. This nutritious bread is often had as lunch. It is mostly paired with tangtur, a dish made with buttermilk and vegetables. Paba can also be accompanied by Zathuk, a native dish made with nettles called Zatsot (Incredible India; Roy, 2023).

Chhurpe or chhurpi is a local cheese made from yak’s milk or the milk produced by dzomo, a hybrid of cattle and yak. In order to produce chhurpe, the milk is boiled, separated into curd and whey, squeezed and sun-dried until the liquid hardens into cheese. Chhurpe can be had as a light snack. It can be seasoned with salt, pepper and spices to enhance its flavor. It is also often added to curries as an ingredient. During winters, chhurpe can be added to thukpa when meat and vegetables are scarce. Chhurpe is rich in protein, vitamins and calcium. Chhurpe is added to tsampa (roasted barley flour) which is then mixed with butter tea to prepare kholak, which is often eaten with meat or vegetables. Chhurpe is also a great travel food as it can survive high temperatures and does not deteriorate easily (Ju-Leh Adventure; SOTC, 2023).

Butter tea, also known as tsaza, po cha or gur gur chai, is a unique beverage of Ladakhi cuisine. A light and refreshing concoction, butter tea is said to taste more like a creamy soup. Unlike traditional tea where sugar is used to varying degrees as a sweetening agent, salt is used to prepare butter tea. Essential ingredients to prepare this tea are yak butter, milk, tea leaves and salt. The yak butter, milk and salt are churned until they blend completely with the boiled tea leaves. Rich in calories, butter tea is the perfect drink for the dry and cold Ladakhi climate as it warms the body up and keeps it hydrated. Celebrations and festivals in Ladakh are incomplete without butter tea (Travel Triangle Team; Ju-Leh Adventure; SOTC, 2023; Incredible India).

Chhang is a Ladakhi alcoholic beverage with Tibetan origins. It is prepared by fermenting rice, millet or barley. The grains are cleaned, boiled, cooled and then fermented. The process of producing Chhang can take up to two days. Chhang is an inextricable part of Ladakhi culture and is served during social gatherings. It also has a place in the marriage ritual: the groom-to be’s family serves a pot of Chhang to the family of the bride-to-be; if the latter accepts, it is taken to mean that the bride-to-be’s family is ready to tie the knot! Often served in wooden mugs, Chhang is served to guests with a bit of butter at the brim of the mug or cup as a sign of respect (Ju-Leh Adventure; SOTC, 2023; Incredible India).

No culinary discussion can be complete without mentioning desserts. The desserts of Ladakh have already found detailed mention elsewhere but a brief description of the same is warranted here. Among the desserts of Ladakh, phirni is the most famous across northern India. Made by slow-cooking fine ground rice with milk and sugar, phirni is a creamy delicacy that tastes best when it is chilled. Apricots are grown in Ladakh in large quantities. Apricots are often eaten by Ladakhis by themselves as desserts. However, what has received the world’s attention is the tangy and sweet apricot jam that is produced in Ladakh (SOTC, 2023; Dorjey and Rinchen, 2012).

The numerous dishes mentioned above do not provide an exhaustive list of the culinary delicacies available in Ladakh. However, I hope it indicates the sheer variety of flavors available in the Land of the High Passes. Another author has called Ladakhi cuisine ‘a whole other planet’ (Roy, 2023) and this author could not agree more! From unique breads to soup-based dishes, refreshing beverages and even jams, Ladakh offers the culture, traditions, festivities and, most of all, the resilience of the communities living in the challenging high-altitude environment in a single platter.